Most traditional farms
disappeared after American and British colonizers introduced sugar
cane, Maui's second largest industry, still grown on 37,000 acres.
But the recent re-emergence of small-scale vegetable and herb farms
between 2,000 and 4,000 feet, "upcountry," in Kula, Makawao
and Olinda, is a salutary trend. The volcanic soil is so rich that
growers cultivating plots from two to 10 acres grow enough to supply
most hotels, restaurants and farmers' markets.
"All the small growers
know we're looking for better, fresher produce, so they're always
trying new varieties," said Executive Chef Tylun Pang at the
Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel in Wailea. "The more we buy, the more
they grow, and we all benefit. We used to buy our vegetables from
California, but they're two days old by the time we get them. I can
order red oak lettuce and baby greens from Kula in the afternoon and
they pick them the next morning." While most of Maui's upcountry
farms aren't open for tours, many growers still believe in Hawaii's
aloha spirit. If you're a closet Luther Burbank -- a horticulturalist
and gardener -- with a resume to match, you might find a grower happy
to see you.
We lucked out at the Aina
Lani Herb Farm in Makawao, where Chef Dan Fiske, who creates "event"
dinners for guests and homeowners at Wailea Beach Villas on Wailea
Beach, works hand-in-hand with Mike McCoy, the farm's owner. McCoy,
one of 38 growers who sell to Kula Produce, a local wholesaler, also
sells (in bulk) to the public.
His west-facing garden
grows the things you might grow at home, from oregano and marjoram
to rosemary, lemon grass, parsley and green onions. He also grows
arugula, watercress and cilantro. But some herbs are experimental.
"Mike's growing a half-dozen kinds of basil, each one has a unique
flavor," said Fiske as we walked through the rows. He snapped
off fresh leaves for us to taste. "If you like basil, remember
that cooking kills the taste. I always sprinkle it on afterwards,
just before serving."
Enthusiastic
and inventive, McCoy also grows sorrel, Kafir lime leaves and pomelo,
as well as papaya and sapote. When the sapote, a pale-green creamy-smooth
fruit , is ripe, Fiske matched it with a puff pastry for a new dessert.
McCoy's hottest items are micro-greens, raised in a greenhouse behind
the orchard. Look for them as garnishes, in appetizers and on tapas.
**Anne Z. Cooke and
Steve Haggerty are California based free-lance writers.
